Wednesday 12 May 2021
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.theguardian - 26 days ago

How to make the most of Italian white wines

What Italian whites lack in terms of pizzazz, they make up for in versatility – just look for more obscure grape varieties to get the most bang for your buck
It always seems a bit of a backhanded compliment to admire Italian whites for their lack of flavour. I don’t mean that they’re positively tasteless in the way that pinot grigio too often is, but rather that they lack the kind of assertive flavours that make them stand out at tastings or competitions. Although tastes are changing, especially in the south and Sicily – both regions that, where wine-making is concerned, often behave more like the new world – Italians don’t really like their wines to be “fruit forward”. Rather, they prefer them simply to blend harmoniously with the local food, which is by and large quite subtle and restrained, too.The advantage of not having the pronounced character of a punchy New Zealand sauvignon blanc or gewürztraminer is that Italian whites, which tend to be unoaked, are hugely versatile. You’d expect them to go with Italian food, and they do, but they can also handle a fair bit of heat. I had a falanghina from Lidl’s latest wine tour – Falanghina Beneventano 2019 (£7.99, 13%) - with some spicy samosas the other day, and it worked quite brill I can imagine it going with tacos, too. Continue reading...

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