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.theguardian - 10 days ago

Pierre Koffmann: A kind of culinary Pele

How a French cook became a cornerstone of modern British cuisineWhen I came to London in 2001, aged 16, Pierre Koffmann was this mythological figure on the restaurant scene, a kind of culinary Pele. It turned out he’s much more important than that – it’s strange to say this of a Frenchman, but the man is a cornerstone of modern British cooking.He’s not exactly a household name – he doesn’t do telly or churn out a book a year – but that’s not where real influence comes from anyway. Just about everyone I’ve ever worked for was trained by someone who was trained by Koffmann – and remember, this was way after his 1980s and 90s heyday, when his restaurant, La Tante Claire in Chelsea, was arguably the best in London, if not the whole UK. Look at all those who have gone through his kitchen – Marco Pierre White, Gordon Ramsay, Marcus Wareing, to name just three. That’s some legacy. Continue reading...

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